Clos du Caillou, Côtes-du-Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Le Caillou” 2022 ($30, Dionysos Imports)

Founded in 1895, Clos du Caillou has deep roots in French winemaking. Legend has it that when government surveyors arrived to map out the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, the estate turned them away — reportedly at gunpoint. As a result, the official Châteauneuf-du-Pape boundary now skirts around Clos du Caillou’s vineyards. Despite this twist of history, Clos du Caillou continues to craft Rhône wines of remarkable quality at a fraction of Châteauneuf-du-Pape prices — an insider’s secret for those in the know. In the glass, red fruit, red licorice, dark florals, and earthy mineral tones interplay in a classic Rhône expression. Beloved for their versatility, Rhône wines complement nearly any occasion, and this one drinks above its price while carrying a fable worth retelling.
91 Vince Simmon