Crane Lake, California Pinot Noir NV ($7)

As noted in a recent review of this winery’s non-vintage Cabernet Sauvignon, the thing with under $10 wines – to choose a rather arbitrary cutoff in these inflationary days – is not to set your expectations too high. Or remember your college days when you couldn’t afford any wine at all. This Pinot is a good entry-level wine, very light in color and structure, not at all complex but nevertheless with enjoyable Pinot varietal tanginess, some evident but not definable savory notes, and good finishing acidity. Good for quaffing or for serving at a wedding reception.
89 Roger Morris