The tech sheet that accompanied this wine states that the source vines are three years old, which struck me as somewhat unusual – as most vines don’t really begin producing wine quality grapes until (at least) what is referred to as “fifth leaf” or the fifth year the vines are in the ground. A slight green or persimmon character may be the signal of very young vines, and it may also be a characteristic of the Mariafeld clone. In this case it seems to also signal a well-chosen site. Rather than coming off as unpleasant, the green tones offset the ripe black cherry and mulberry fruit nicely, adding depth and interest. A peppery finish makes this a friend of the red meat side of the menu. A bottling to follow as new vintages come on line.
92 Rich Cook
Cuvaison, Los Carneros, Napa Valley (California) Pinot Noir “Mariafeld” 2023 ($80)
By Rich Cook
