Dolly Wines / Parton Family Cellars, California Pinot Noir 2023 ($15)

A surprisingly good wine – not because it’s a mass-produced celebrity wine with Accolade as a partner – but because of its modest price and its almost-generic California appellation. It is a refreshing, light-bodied Pinot Noir with lilting cherry flavors, a tangy finish, and good acidity that all keep it pleasantly lingering on the palate.
90 Roger Morris