The most amazing thing about this wine is its availability. Most red Burgundies from 2009 (a stellar year in my view) have long since disappeared from the retail market. I have said it before, and it’s worth repeating since I’ve tasted scores more since their release, you can’t have too many 2009 red Burgundies in your cellar. It was a ripe year that produced concentrated wines balanced by, in most cases, excellent structure. Despite coming from relatively young vines — Eva Reh-Siddle, who runs the domaine, says they were planted in 1997 — this wine from Domaine Bertagna fits that overall description nicely. Truly a wine from Chambolle, it has charm combined with a subtle tarriness and fine, firm tannins. Beautifully balanced, there’s not a trace of over ripeness or heaviness. Its grandeur and elegance become even more apparent in its long finish. I’d cellar it for another decade.
Domaine Bertagna, Chambolle Musigny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2009
By Michael Apstein
