One way to find well-priced Burgundy (no, that’s not an oxymoron) is to choose a down-market appellation from a top-notch producer, such as Domaine Bertagna. Although Les Dames Huguettes lies in the appellation of Hautes Côtes de Nuits, just west (up and behind) the escarpment of the Côte d’Or, the vineyard itself still lies within the boundaries of the village of Nuits St Georges. Bertagna’s 2012 has good concentration — the vintage speaking, charming rusticity — that’s the appellation, and surprising suaveness, the hallmark of the producer. It’s an excellent choice for grilled tuna or salmon.
Domaine Bertagna, Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) 2012
By Michael Apstein