Domaine de Montille, Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves (Burgundy, France) 2021 ($123, DeMeine Estates)

One of the wonderful delights of Montille’s wines is how they express their terroir. That is, how they differ one from the other despite using the same grape, Pinot Noir, grown in the same region, only a few miles apart. This beautiful Beaune, from one of that village’s top premier cru vineyards, delivers an earthier and weightier profile compared to Montille’s more aromatic and suavely textured Volnay Taillepieds. Its mouth-filling presence delivers the same “flavor without weight” sensation as the Volnay, just with different contours. The Beaune Grèves needs a few years to come together, as it no doubt will, given its harmony. Those wishing to understand the magic of Burgundy should gather some friends and try these two gems side by side.
93 Michael Apstein