Domaine de Montille, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Le Clos du Château 2021 ($51, Demeine Estates)

Although Le Clos du Château, a walled vineyard that sits directly in front of the Château de Puligny Montrachet, lies within the village of Puligny-Montrachet, it lies outside of that village’s appellation. Hence, it carries the Bourgogne Blanc appellation. Who said Burgundy was simple? The Montille family in acquired the Château de Puligny Montrachet in 2012 and has been responsible for the wines ever since, selling them under their name. This clean and crisp Bourgogne Blanc shows the value of wines from less prestigious appellations when made by top producers. Even though it may lack the depth of Puligny-Montrachet, it conveys the delicacy and elegance of wines from that more exalted appellation. Riveting acidity amplifies its charms and keeps it fresh throughout a meal. This is real Bourgogne Blanc that reflects the minerality of the region.
91 Michael Apstein