Domaine Dominique Gallois, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2012

The wine comes from two separate premier cru vineyards, which are close to each other, but are distinct. Yields were so low in 2012–which helps to explain the high prices for that excellent vintage–that Gallois had to combine juice from the two vineyards to make a manageable quantity of wine. By doing that, he sacrificed the ability to label it with a vineyard name(s). But there’s no doubt about its stature. One whiff announces premier cru grandeur and one sip confirms it. It’s a hard-to-resist combination of fruit and earthy wrapped in suave tannins. Impeccable balance means it will develop gracefully with bottle age — if you can keep your hands off it.