Domaine Economou, Sitia PDO (Crete, Greece) “Heliades” 2014 ($65, T. Elenteny Imports)

Natural wine can be polarizing, but this one is nothing short of breathtaking. Sourced from pre-phylloxera bush vines, it brings together the unique terroirs of twelve different winemaking regions. At first glance, it might resemble kombucha due to its skin-contact style, but this white wine holds a serious presence. Concentrated and profound, it reveals layers of roasted nuts, honey, and vibrant minerality. Made from the Vilana and Thrapsathiri varieties, it shows high acidity and a full-bodied structure, and is both powerful and complex. The finish lingers, offering a sweet, nutty finish that leaves a lasting impression.
95 Miranda Franco