The vineyard, Clos des Myglands, is owned entirely by Faiveley, unusual in Burgundy where vineyards usually are fragmented by multiple owners. Also unusual is the stature of this wine, from a less prestigious village in Burgundy, not even in the Côte d’Or, but further south in the Côte Chalonnaise. But since prices of Burgundy are determined more by the pedigree of the locale and less by what’s in the bottle, this one is a great buy. The delicate–but persistent–red fruit flavors dance across the palate. It’s a nicely balanced package of sweet fruit, leafy qualities and firm minerality characteristic of the Cote Chalonnaise. Mild tannins than lend needed structure are not intrusive and allow enjoyment now. It’s got the real Burgundy character of flavor without weight.
Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2008
By Michael Apstein