Domaine Frederic Mabileau, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil (Loire Valley, France) “FRED” 2022 ($31 Sacred Thirst Imports)

Family run since the late 1880s, this domaine now has 35 hectares spread out over four appellations: Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Bourgueil, Saumur and Anjou. All of the vineyards are certified organic and biodynamic. FRED pays homage to Frederic Mabileau who passed away in 2020. Remy, his son, now manages the property and came up with this unusual wine made from 40-year-old Cabernet Franc. It was fermented by carbonic maceration, a process favored for Beaujolais Nouveau with Gamay grapes. But this is not a one-dimensional fruit bomb. The aroma combines notes of bell pepper and tobacco associated with Cab Franc along with the expected raspberry and cherry components. On the palate, it offers a big mouthful of lush berries with some length provided by gentle, smooth tannins. Best to drink over the near term.
90 Norm Roby