Domaine Jean Defaix, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2023 ($36)

Despite climate change, Chablis remains a unique expression of Chardonnay, as this stoney wine shows. It delivers an alluring combination of floral and flinty elements, all buttressed by saline-tinged acidity in the finish. Domaine Jean Defaix has crafted a terrific village wine that shows that bargains still exist in this unique part of Burgundy. Try it now with simply grilled fish or frankly, anything from the sea.
91 Michael Apstein