One formula for Burgundy bargains is to find a top producer who lives and has vineyards in an out-of-the-way place. Domaine Lafouge’s Auxey-Duresses (“oh say doo ress”) fits that formula. Auxey-Duresses, like Monthélie, which it abuts, is situated in the prestigious Côte d’Or, but most of its vineyards lie even further west. Lafouge is a compulsive grower who makes at least four Premier Cru Auxey-Duresses in addition to this village wine. Their focus is on elegance. They do not over manipulate the wines to make them “bigger.” This mid-weight red wine conveys the charm of Burgundy, combining red fruit notes with savory ones. It would fit nicely on the Thanksgiving table.
Domaine Jean et Giles Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses (Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France) 2017
By Michael Apstein