Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Château Corton Grancey 2023 ($157, Louis Latour USA)

As much as I was smitten by Latour’s 2023 Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Les Chaillots, and I was, Latour’s flagship red, Chateau Corton Grancey shows the stature of a Grand Cru and is, well, just better. The name is an anomaly since there are no “châteaux” in Burgundy like those in Bordeaux. Latour blends Pinot Noir from five specific Grand Cru sites on the hill of Corton: Perrières, Clos du Roi, Grèves, Bressandes, and Chaumes, the proportion of each depends on the vintage. They select only the best grapes for Grancey since Latour has the luxury of producing other red wines from Corton, including other Grand Crus. The 2023 Grancey is, in a word, stunning. The explosive bouquet of fruit and minerals predict greatness, and the sensations on the palate confirm that. The wine combines Corton iron-tinged minerality with deep black fruitiness, not a bit of which suggests over-ripeness. Its firm yet suave texture identifies it as a Grand Cru, and its elegant finish seals the deal. This firm youthful wine is already captivating, but I know from experience that you either drink it within the next year or two to enjoy its expressive youthful character or hold it for a decade or two to enjoy even more complexity and magical transformation.
97 Michael Apstein