Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2012

Sylvain Pataille, a terrific producer based in Marsannay, produces this Bourgogne rouge from vines that average about 35 years of age.  Indeed, a third of the vines in this 2.5-acre vineyard date from 1950s.  The old vines explain the gorgeous complexity and density you rarely fine in Bourgogne Rouge.  Lovely to drink now, it will surely gain more subtlety in the coming years.  Sadly, the worldwide clamoring for distinctive red Burgundy explains the price.