Although Aligoté, the second white grape of Bourgogne, comprises only about 10 percent of the white plantings there, climate change and increased interest in the grape by growers makes Bourgogne Aligoté worth exploring. In the past, Aligoté, a lean and acidic wine, was used primarily to offset the sweetness of crème de cassis in an aperitif, Kir. Now, climate change has added ripeness, softening Aligoté’s edges, and young, talented winemakers see the grape’s potential. Located in Préhy in the Chablis region, Vincent Wengier is known primarily for wines from that appellation. They also make this stunning Aligoté. Wengier has managed to capture a mineral-tinged fullness without losing any of the uplifting edginess characteristic of Aligoté. It’s a great choice to accompany the plethora of flavors in sushi. And contrary to conventional wisdom that suggests a sweet wine with foie gras or blue cheeses, this Aligoté does just fine.
93 Michael Apstein
Domaine Vincent Wengier, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2022 ($21)
By Michael Apstein