Duca di Salaparuta, one of the oldest wineries in Sicily, introduced many Americans to the value-packed joy of Sicilian wines decades ago with Corvo, which was made with purchased grapes grown all over the island. Well, Duca di Salaparuta has evolved and now makes a bevy of distinctive estate wines. The Passo delle Mule comes exclusively from Nero d’Avola grapes grown on their Sour Marchese Estate just inland from the southern coast. I love wines made from Nero d’Avola because, when done well, they offer complexity — fruit and earthy flavors — even when young. This one checks all the boxes: Good weight, yet not heavy. Dark fruit flavors intermingled seamlessly with savory/earthy ones. Bright acidity that keeps it lively throughout the meal. And well-priced. It is perfect for current consumption and will serve you well with robust fare of fall and into the winter.
Duca di Salaparuta, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola 2019
By Michael Apstein
