Duckhorn is certainly among the USA’s most famous producers of Merlot, and their Three Palms Vineyard bottling is among the most sought-after Merlots on the planet. That wine costs about $100, so you might figure that this Carneros bottling, which isn’t vineyard designated, would be a lot less expensive and a lot easier to find. The bad news is that you’d be wrong on both counts, as this rings up for $75 and only 480 cases of it were made. But the good news is that the wine is absolutely terrific, and by the time you’ve gotten a glass of it down the hatch, you’ll be thoroughly consoled if you weren’t able to track down a bottle of the Three Palms rendition. The most outstanding feature here is a combination of great richness and depth of flavor with amazing freshness, thanks to very bright acidity that enlivens the wine all the way through its long, symmetrical finish. The oak component is notable but still modest, which reflects a wise winemaking decision to let the remarkably lovely fruit hold center stage. This will develop additional complexities over the course of the next 5+ years, but it is already extremely enjoyable. And lest you think you’d need lighter fare with which to enjoy it now…wrongo…this would rock with the most robust preparations of beef or lamb. In sum, wicked good wine.
Duckhorn, Carneros (California) Merlot 2014
By Michael Franz
