John and Linda Carter, both successful in their respective careers — he in business and she in music — had the good sense to hired Lynn Penner-Ash to make their wine. She was the one who put the Rex Hill Vineyards’ Pinot Noir on the map in the late 1980s and 1990s before establishing Penner-Ash Wine Cellars. Her talents are clear with Dusky Goose Pinot Noir. She has fashioned a moderately intense style of Pinot Noir, while still capturing its herbal and savory nuances. So often robust Pinot Noir wines fall into what I call the “Pinot Syrah” category of jam-y power. Not this one. It retains balance and grace.
Dusky Goose, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2016
By Michael Apstein