Fongaro, Verona (Veneto, Italy) “Viola” Metodo Classico Lessini Riserva Brut Spumanti 2017 ($40, Williams Corner)

Founded in 1975 by Guerrino Gongaro, who retired to the Lessini Mountains to fulfill his lifelong dream of making wine, the estate became one of the first to champion Durella sparkling wines — at a time when others had abandoned this challenging grape. His pioneering spirit shines through in every glass of this captivating and expressive Italian sparkler. The Fongaro ‘Viola’ Metodo Classico Lessini Durella Riserva Brut opens with a golden pour and a bouquet of toasted brioche, hazelnut, and delicate floral tones, unfolding into tropical fruit, grapefruit, and yellow apple. On the palate, it’s dry and crisp yet velvety, weaving together notes of baked apple, roasted Anjou pear, honeyed pie crust, and a whisper of wild thyme. The result is a beautiful interplay of fruit and savory depth, supported by a creamy texture and fine, balanced structure that leads to a long, harmonious finish.
92 Miranda Franco