Fort Ross Vineyard, Fort Ross-Seaview (Sonoma Coast, California) Chenin Blanc 2023 ($44)

In its third vintage of estate grown Chenin Blanc, Fort Ross delivered this extraordinary rendition. It brings together concentration, energy, and complexity—all in a seamless package. In the glass it is light yellow with a healthy green tint, and the initial assertive aroma presents itself with a combination of lemon meringue and fresh pear notes. With airing, the aroma takes on some ginger spice and melon as well. On the palate, it is medium-bodied with concentrated flavors of lemon and stone fruits. From start to finish, the wine is solidly structured and remains lively on the palate. With its crisp acidity, the flavors continue to a very fresh finish with background notes of honeysuckle and bosc pear fruit. Unquestionably one of the finest Chenins in my experience, the wine was made by Jeff Pisoni, who aged 80% of the wine in neutral French oak for seven months and bottled it unfiltered. 100 cases made.
95 Norm Roby