Gassier, Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire (Provence, France) “Le Pas du Moine – 350” 2024 ($35, Massanois)

You can be forgiven if you are tempted to buy wines from Provence for their distinctive and generally lovely bottle shapes – this one is hexagonal – rivaled only by the ornate bottles of Cognac. The wine is good, too, with pleasant orange and savory flavors and a texture that is not too crisp but not too fat (just right?) with a nice finish, but a finish that could have stayed around a little longer. The Sainte Victoire appellation in the Arc River Valley was this year granted the status as being Provence’s first recognized Cru.
90 Roger Morris