In the French countryside, restaurants are often classified as “gourmet” signifying it is a step or two above “bistro” so that we will not be surprised by the intention or the price. I often think of wines in the same way I do food, in three basic categories – “everyday” meaning enjoyable with no apologies and no pretenses; “comfort” which may or may not be a step up but which hits all the right points and makes us say “ahhh” and “gourmet” — which is elegant and complex and which makes us pay attention. This Zinfandel falls at the high end of the comfort zone, near the low end of gourmet, and hence the 90 score. It made me smile with its warm black raspberry core surrounded by mellow oak flavors (I’m a sucker for good oak management), a certain oxygenated or “spongy” characteristic and a very long finish where the cherry flavors often associated with Zin appear. For whatever reason, it was decided to hold the 2014 to release (or re-release) now, so I wouldn’t keep the wine much longer. But right now, it’s an excellent comfort wine to pair with your best comfort food – perhaps a beef Bourguignon.
Gehricke, Sonoma Valley (California) Zinfandel 2014
By Roger Morris