Girlan, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Lagrein 2012

The name of the DOC — either Alto Adige or Südtirol — reflects the dual identity of this part of northern Italy, which abuts Austria.  But this is a singularly appealing wine.  Lagrein, not a well-known grape, should have more widespread popularity because it can produce a reasonably robust wine devoid of searing tannins and balanced by uplifting acidity.  Girlan’s 2012 is a fine example.  Thick and juicy, with more black fruit than red, smooth tannins and invigorating acidity makes it easy — and a joy — to drink now with hearty pasta dishes or even a steak.