Granbazán, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Etiqueta Verde” 2024 ($27, Europvin)

This wine is among my favorite renditions of Albariño in most vintages, and the 2024 is both delicious and fun — thanks to its “throw-back” label and bottle as well as its fresh but still substantial character in the glass. Classic orchard fruit notes recall ripe peaches, with this core flavor beautifully accented by a saline undertone. If you think you missed the prime season for enjoying this wine because summer has given way to autumn, I am glad to offer the corrective observation that oyster season is just kicking into high gear — and this would be a terrific partner for them. They are hardly the only promising pairing for this wine, which is quite versatile thanks to its combination of freshness and depth of flavor, with almost any dish like sautéed fish filets or clam pasta also making my mouth water — just thinking about those combinations.
93 Michael Franz