Gustave Lorentz, Alsace AOC (France) Riesling 2018

 This organic, old vines “Evidence” bottling is leaner and racier than the standard-issue “Réserve” bottling from this house, with a touch more aromatic complexity.  I tasted the two side by side over the course of several hours, but couldn’t ultimately give one or the other a higher score, as the greater richness of the “Réserve” is so well balanced that it provides every bit as much pleasure if not quite the same level of “fine-ness.”  If the two gave me a bit of trouble as a critic, they’ll give you two excellent options as a consumer.  Very impressive.