A delectable example of northern California’s most successful single grape variety, this wine, which comes from a small, boutique winery that I confess I had not heard of before now, is a sure-fire winner. Marked by a firm but not unyielding structure, with fruit, acid, and tannin all in seemingly impeccable balance, it tastes impressively deep and long, finishing with multi-layered, lingering complexity. I suspect that interested consumers will need to visit or call the winery to order it. One taste, however, should show that the extra effort is well worth the trouble. (Tasted blind at the 2011 Sonoma County Harvest Fair wine competition.)
Harts Desire Wines, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
By Paul Lukacs