This producer seems amazingly adept at making everything in its lineup, and this brilliant Chardonnay is certainly no exception. The fruit is drawn from three different clones planted across three vineyard blocks before going through whole bunch pressing and fermentation entirely in French oak (18% of it new). That looks like a recipe for a big rendering of Chardonnay, but only 20% of the barrels went through malolactic fermentation, with the result that highly energetic acidity powers right through the oak notes to produce a persistent, very fresh finish.
Iona, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2016
By Michael Franz
