Ippolito 1845, Cirò Rosso Classico Superiore DOC (Calabria, Italy) 2019

 Comprised of 100% Gaglioppo, this offers a lot of distinctive character for $18, and that “character” doesn’t come at the cost of this seeming weird or off-putting in any way.  Medium-bodied but just barely, and capable benefitting from a light chilling but certainly not limited to that usage, this will work very well with grilled fish, moderately robust pasta dishes, or poultry.  It is also notable as a relatively rare wine from Italy that is an excellent stand-along sipper, which is notable for the simple reason that the great majority of Italian reds are structured for the table.  The fruit recalls plums and dark cherries, with no evident wood influence and light tannins that are well matched to the weight and flavor impact of the wine.  Fun without being frivolous, this is a fine choice to keep around one’s house to grab and enjoy on impulse, or for restaurant wine lists thanks to its versatility — though it won’t sell itself without some staff training.