J. Lohr, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay “October Night” 2023 ($25)

As usual, this wine is one of the most wildly aromatic wines out there, but there’s a little surprise coming once you calm down from the pleasant pop in the nose. The palate delivers all the brightness you’d expect from the papaya and passion fruit nose, with well-chosen oak accents providing depth and finesse as opposed to bombast and heft. This is the best vintage of this that I’ve tasted, and I think I’ve tasted all of them.
94 Rich Cook