Jean Leon, Penedes (Catalonia, Spain) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

Anybody who can string together four syllables can claim they make a Bordeaux style red, but here’s a Spanish Cabernet that could fool a pretty good taster on a fairly good day.  There’s a lot of oak up top, but it is of good quality and not overdone.  The flavors are really more savory than fruity, with cocoa and woodspice running ahead of blackberry notes that are restrained almost to the point of austerity.  This lack of sweetness (or overt ripeness) is what establishes the likeness with Bordeaux.  Nicely styled but built for food.