Jeff Runquist, Amador County (California) Dolcetto 2020

 I taste a lot of Dolcetto each year, and taste a lot of it in its traditional home around Alba in Piedmont, which I note only to set a foundation for asserting that this is not only a world class rendition, but also one that is very near the head of the class.  It is richer and more powerful than most of the biggest renderings from Dogliani, a Dolcetto specialty zone immediately south of the Barolo district, yet it shows the same fruit character and quite comparable structural elements that show excellent symmetry.  Red- and black-toned fruit notes are accented with a subtle touch of oak that tones down the wine’s ripeness, resulting in a wine that could pair very successfully with many foods from a span stretching from a roast chicken to a grilled steak.  Seriously impressive.