Kaltern, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2023 ($16, Enotec and Siema)

Kaltern is among a set of outstanding cooperative wineries in Alto Adige, which has many small vineyard plots for which building a winery is impractical. This explains the existence of so many cooperatives in the region, but it is highly favorable growing conditions, a high average in vine-tending skill, and remarkable winemaking and management talent in these enterprises that explains the superb quality and value of the wines. This is a consistently fine case in point, a wine that shows much a more interesting and complex set of aromas and flavors that is the Italian average for Pinot Grigio in this price range. There is also more palate weight, but excellent acidity that keeps this balanced between being substantial and refreshing. Don’t worry about this not being a 2024 release—it is showing beautifully now, and will continue to do so at least through the summer of 2025.
92 Michael Franz