Kettmeir, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) “Athesis” Brut Rosé NV ($50)

Thankfully, not all bubbly wine from Italy is Prosecco. The country can make outstanding sparkling wine using the “Metodo Classico.” (EU regulations prohibit the use of the term “Champagne Method” because it references a protected regional name, but that’s what it means). This robust rosé is the real thing, delivering a harmonious balance of power, fruitiness, and elegance. A stiff spine of acidity and fine bubbles keeps all the elements together. A great aperitivo, it holds up nicely to grilled salmon or other “meaty” flavors.
93 Michael Apstein