For companies such as Kind of Wild that source rather than grow the majority of their grapes, the current slowdown in wine consumption is a two-pronged wine opener. On the one prong there is a glut of finished wine available in stores and online that makes marketing a headache. On the other prong, there is little problem in finding good grapes on the open market for making the wines. This full-bodied Grüner from Austria has good, rounded flavors of lime and apple, a bit of Chablis-like chalkiness, and a crisp finish – good typicity on a bigger platform.
90 Roger Morris
Kind of Wild, Niederösterreich (Austria) Grüner Veltliner 2023 ($26)
By Roger Morris
