Laherte Freres, Champagne (France) Extra Brut “Ultradition” NV ($69, Advintage Distributing)

This cuvée is anchored by Pinot Meunier, supported by Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Vinified in a combination of stainless steel and oak, “Ultradition” marries freshness with complexity, its Extra Brut dosage (meaning very little sugar added) preserving a taut, mineral-driven frame. The bouquet opens with lifted aromas of orchard fruit — apple, pear, and a touch of quince — accented by citrus zest, white blossoms, and a subtle hint of pastry. On the palate, the wine is chiseled and electric, offering flavors of ripe pear, lemon, and almond alongside fine, persistent effervescence. A compelling value in the world of grower Champagne, “Ultradition” will especially resonate with those who love racy acidity and a focused, ultra-bright style.
92 Miranda Franco