Becky Wasserman’s name on a bottle is a sure sign of quality. Her name is never on the front label — that’s reserved for the producer and appellation. Seeing her name on the back label is a superb recommendation for a producer you may have never heard of. This is especially useful navigating the myriad of small producers in Burgundy, one of whom is Lignier-Michelot. Virgile Lignier is the third generation in charge at this small family-run firm based in Morey-St. Denis. They make a consistently outstanding line-up, so a good place to start is with their “simple” Bourgogne Rouge. The grapes — all Pinot Noir — come from vineyards that lie just outside the limits of Morey St. Denis and Chambolle-Musigny, two of the most famous villages in the Côte de Nuits. Not surprisingly, given this pedigree, Lignier-Michelot’s Bourgogne Rouge hits well above its weight class. Nicely balanced, it delivers a charming combination of bright red fruit and earthiness. Not flamboyant, it focuses on the savory, not the fruity, side of Pinot Noir.
Lignier-Michelot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2016
By Michael Apstein