Louis Pommery, Los Carneros (California) Chardonnay 2022 ($25)

I was not aware that the Champagne house of Pommery or its owners had any presence in California winemaking until a press sample of this bottle arrived — and presented itself as a delightfully fresh and juicy rendition of Chardonnay. It is sourced from a single vineyard site that goes un-named on the back label, but supervision of the winemaking is attributed to Clément Pierlot, Cellar Master of Champagne Pommery — so the “French Connection” is confirmed. The wine shows the open, juicy fruit character associated with the warm California sun, but reserved winemaking involving minimal oak usage is equally evident in the wine’s elegant and straightforward deliciousness. At the risk of encouraging a price increase, I’m obliged to observe that this out-performs 95% of California Chardonnays priced around $25.
92 Michael Franz