Luce, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2017

 Luce Brunello is perhaps not as well known as its Super Tuscan IGT brother, “Luce,” whose flavors are mellowed somewhat by blending Sangiovese with Merlot, making it a very popular, if equally expensive, Tuscan red.  This wine is, of course, 100% Sangiovese, macerated for four weeks in Slavonian oak and aged at least 24 months in Slavonian barrels.  As a result, it comes out of the bottle a bit like a bucking bronco, rambunctious and full of energy.  The first impact is of big, dark, blackberry flavors with generous amounts of mature oak, lots of dusty tannins and tart bitter edges.  If you like your Sangios big and burly, don’t put the cork back in.  But while maintaining the Sangiovese rough, raspy qualities, it does work its way around with decanting, or leaving the bottle open for a while, to gradually mellowing to become a more balanced, very enjoyable wine.