Luis Pato, Bairrada (Portugal) “Vinhas Velhas” 2023 ($32, Grossberg/Kopman Selections)

Bairrada is one of Portugal’s most underrated wine regions. Located south of Porto and southwest of the Dão appellation, Bairrada benefits from strong Atlantic Ocean influences that provide a cooling effect and help preserve acidity throughout the region’s warm growing season. This Vinhas Velhas (“old vines”) white bursts with tropical character, from tart starfruit to ripe pineapple. The interplay of bright acidity and depth of flavor keeps you searching for new nuances with every sip.
92 Vince Simmon