Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Rouge (France) 2012

This Bourgogne Rouge delivers far more than you’d expect from that simple appellation and shows that the producer often trumps terroir.  A look at the label explains why.  First, Maison Louis Jadot is one of Burgundy’s top producers.  Second, the Domaine Gagey in the box on the bottom of the label means that Pierre-Henri Gagey, who runs Jadot, owns the vineyard, Le Chapitre, which is located in the Côte de Nuits just outside of Dijon.  Third, the 2012 vintage, with its low yields, produced concentrated wines and was especially beneficial to lower level appellations.  I tasted this wine from barrel two years ago and loved its concentration and complexity, but thought at the time it lacked elegance.  What a difference two years makes!  It’s still concentrated with a great interplay of fruity and earthy flavors.  But now there’s a gracefulness to the wine — the Burgundian sensibility of flavor without weight.  This is a wonderful introduction to the charms of Burgundy.  It’s also a reminder to those of us who love Burgundy that you don’t need to drink wines from exalted appellation to capture the essence of that region.  Considering the prices of Pinot Noir in general and Burgundy in particular, Jadot’s Le Chapitre is a bargain.