Manzone, Langhe Rossese Bianco DOC (Piedmont, Italy) 2020 ($22)

Rossese Bianco is another fascinating grape variety that was once on the brink of extinction. Tracing its origins back to Liguria and Cinque Terre, the Manzone family evaluated it with the assistance of the University of Turin. The results were so impressive that in 1982 the Manzones planted a small vineyard. The early vintages also encouraged them to establish another vineyard to it in 2011. The grape develops some color at maturity, and sure enough this 2020 is light yellow with a pink tinge, and the aroma is an alluring combination of tangerine, citrus and spring flowers. Extended lees aging and battonage come through in the smooth, mouth-coating flavors that remain zesty thanks to good acidity. For added interest, a touch of beeswax comes through in the finish. With its unusual combination of freshness and rich texture, Rossese Bianco is well on its way to an incredible comeback.
93 Norm Roby