Marchelle, Mendocino Ridge (Mendocino County, California) Manchester Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 ($60)

Manchester Ridge Vineyard overlooks the Pacific Ocean in Mendocino County. Its altitude allows it to sit above the Northern California fog line but also provides cool winds that help the grapes retain their acidity. Manchester Ridge’s Chardonnay flowers in July, making it one of the latest to flower in California. Despite this, its long growing season and altitude allow the grapes plenty of sunshine to ripen, giving the wine excellent complexity. Owner Greg La Follette uses visual cues from the vines to determine the timing of harvest, including leaf structure, tendril brittleness, and the grape’s vascular bundle – described by Greg as the flesh left on the stem when the grape is pulled away. The end result is an excellently structured Chardonnay with a complex profile of flavors ranging from pineapple, to sourdough, to baked apples.
97 Vince Simmon