Masseria Li Veli, Salento (Puglia, Italy) Primitivo 2016

 I recently saw a statement by a famous and successful wine critic describing wines from the Primitivo grape as “big, jammy, and rustic, with high alcohol, chewy tannins, and a sweet finish.”   Fortunately for my taste, this Primitvo from the Falvo family in Puglia in southern Italy does not fit that description.  I found it to be a very well-balanced, harmonious wine.  The aromas demanded my attention with a marvelous concoction of black cherry fruit and woody spices like cinnamon and sandalwood.  In the mouth, the wine was medium bodied with a pleasing balance of fruit, spices, surprisingly piquant acidity, smooth ripe tannins and 14 percent alcohol.  The Falvo family acquired the Li Veli property in 1999 and restored the vineyards, replanting head-pruned vines in a settonce pattern, a system developed by the Romans.  The massive winery building houses state of the art equipment.  This lovely wine is a fitting tribute to their efforts.