Miguel Torres, Valle del Bío Bío (Chile) Pais “Millapoa” 2022 ($35, Vineyard Brands)

If you’ve always wanted to taste a varietal wine made from the Mission grape that early Spaniards brought to the Americas, then here’s your chance to give Pais (as it’s called in Chile) a chance. Many Chilean producers want to forget about the once-ubiquitous grape, but Torres and others want to elevate it. In this instance, it has good length of flavors – ripe, sweetish cherry and a touch of black raspberries – with a lightly tangy finish. Although it doesn’t have much depth of flavor, it is still quite pleasant, and arguably could deserve a “90.”
89 Roger Morris