Vintage Champagne isn’t made every year, but only in years where the winemaking team decides that something unique can be expressed beyond the house style that the multi-vintage offerings strive to maintain year after year. This can be complicated by industry trends like the current Extra Brut craze that compel producers to shoot at a target that the marketing department would love to be able to promote. This bottling is a clear win for both departments. It blends 48% Pinot Noir, 34% Chardonnay and 18% Pinot Meunier into a light and elegant Extra Brut expression, with bright apple, pear and mixed citrus aromas getting lift from a faint toasty note. The yeasty character developed during six years en tirage comes forward on the palate, adding depth to the fruit mix and finishing with a zesty flair. A fine aperitif that will move to the table effortlessly — if there is any left.
95 Rich Cook
Moët & Chandon, Champagne (France) Extra Brut “Grand Vintage” 2016 ($120)
By Rich Cook
