Nathalie & Gilles Fevre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2023 ($33, Fleet Street)

Perhaps it’s just me, but because Chablis is such a special wine, as close to as indicative of place of origin as you can get from a Chardonnay, one like this — that tastes like it could come from anyplace — is a bit of a disappointment, no matter if it is somewhat charming. Which is the case here, with none of that stony minerality or crisp acidity that one expects being displayed by the wine. It is pleasant enough, with rounded, full-bodied structure, lots of apple flavors (but also, oddly, if not unpleasantly, of cracked grain), and some dried-herb hints in the finish.
89 Roger Morris