They say that confession is good for the soul, so I should acknowledge up front that I am not generally a fan of Gewürztraminer, which is often too perfumed and insufficiently acidic for my taste. But with that said, when even I find an example that I consider outstanding by any standard, we’re definitely onto something special. Navarro has as good a track record with this variety as any producer anywhere — including Alsace and Alto Adige — and a record that is way, way better than most. This is very expressive aromatically, with lovely floral topnotes that aren’t pungent or overbearing, and hence not “perfumed” in the way I employ that term (which is derogatory). The scents are alluring, and the flavors deliver on their promise, showing generous and pure fruit that is energized by much more abundant and energetic acidity than is the norm. Moreover, the acidity is perfectly integrated with the fruit, and the dry finish doesn’t seem at all discordant with the floral aromas (which can suggest that sweetness is on the way, producing a disconcerting sensory effect known as “disagreement”). This is undeniably delicious, and hence I anticipate no disagreement with my admiration from anyone who tastes it. A Platinum Award winner at the 2022 San Diego International Wine and Spirits Challenge.
Navarro Vineyards, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Dry Gewurztraminer 2020
By Michael Franz