Niro, Terre di Chieti (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino 2016

 Pecorino is a variety that was nearly extinct as recently as 15 years ago, but is now roaring back in the southern portion of the Marche and northern Abruzzo, both located on the Adriatic below Venice in Central Italy.  The variety can also make very fine sparkling wine, but this dry table rendition is terrific, with restrained citrus and white melon fruit that leads to an intriguing nutty, mineral finish.  Don’t let the word, “restrained” put you off:  The key to this wine’s success is that the subtlety of the fruit lets its other nuances hold their own.